Why book?
This is a tastefully refreshed Parisian icon facing the Palais Garnier with luxury accommodations and hotel group services but with much gentler prices than the other five-stars nearby.
Set the scene
The covered entrance to this Haussmannian-era dame is as grand as the many city blocks that the property occupies, directly facing the Palais Garnier. That’s clear from the moment you are greeted by the valet and pass the threshold to one of the original homes to Parisian luxury lodging. Weave your way through the foyer, beneath an ornate chandelier and past plush armchairs and thick columns and you’ll reach the broader lobby within view of the hotel’s most iconic feature: the winter garden with its majestic glass canopy, an expansive space where hotel clients, as well as Parisians discussing business, gather for coffee, a light lunch or tea time. As a participating property in the IHG® One Rewards program, you’re likely to spot award travelers from around the world. But given the property’s size—five miles of hallways and 458 rooms since the last 2021 renovation but still with the heft of a liner—it’s also popular among business, cultural and political delegations. During my visit, a massive group from Thailand were staying and participating in events on-site. And given its status as one of few diplomatic hotels in France (approved by the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs as a secure accommodation solution for diplomats and other foreign travelers, complete with armored windows and doors, secure entrances and exits, a panic room, and autonomous telephone lines), it’s likely you’ll cross paths with any number of high-profile guests à la Kamala Harris or John Kerry.
The backstory
Built at the request of Emperor Napoleon III who had his heart set on building the grandest hotel in Europe, the doors officially opened in 1862 with a gala event hosted by Empress Eugénie. The scale and opulence of the property was unprecedented: 800 rooms, 40 bathrooms, the world’s first hydraulic elevator and hydrotherapy treatments. At the very same time, Napoleon laid the foundation stone for the Palais Garnier, the grand opéra house across the way, sealing the construction of this Haussmannian jewel, which would lord over the Place de l’Opéra in 1875. With that avant garde reputation and modern luxuries, the hotel quickly became the resort of choice for Americans visiting Paris, as well as the world of art and entertainment. By the turn of the century, the hotel was more than living up to the grandeur in its name: it housed a theater ticket office, a travel agency, a post office, a wine cellar, a darkroom for developing photos, and, of course, a gathering place for the world’s creative elites like Josephine Baker, Marlene Dietrich, and Sarah Bernhardt– whose portrait still graces the reception area. The grand ballroom, now called the Salon Opéra, was even said to have inspired Charles Garnier, the opera’s architect. With its 14-meter-high dome, remarkable gilding, arcades, caryatids and candelabras, it’s no wonder the salon is regularly booked for elaborate weddings and special events.
Of course, even the grandest of properties needs a makeover from time to time. The most recent refresh was completed by the architect Pierre-Yves Rochon, who was first tasked with restoring the hotel’s Second Empire style in 1985 (and is also known for his work on Four Seasons and Waldorf Astoria properties).
The rooms
With the latest renovation by Pierre-Yves Rochon, the room count dropped from 470 to 458 rooms, of which 90 are suites. All lean more residential than before. Added to this are Rochon’s five newly created Signature Suites which were designed to feel like chic Parisian apartments, each with a unique aesthetic. The room I stayed in, the Suite Parisienne, sits beneath the rooftops with a dusty pink color palette and themed wallpaper and boasts the only unobstructed view of the Eiffel Tower in the entire property. The Charles Garnier suite is more sober in its decor, done up in a palette of whites and beiges which allows the Opéra Garnier, in close view from nearly every vantage point, to lend the awe-inspiring touch. The hotel’s historic Presidential suites have retained their classic decor. All rooms feature Byredo amenities, complimentary tea and coffee, and a well-stocked mini bar.
Food and drink
The Café de la Paix, the hotel’s on-site café that has a long and loyal local clientèle, is perhaps not so much a restaurant as a gilded, historic legend in its own right. Unless you order seafood, there is nothing light about the ultra classic menu: frog legs, Rossini beef with black truffle jus, onion soup based on the café’s original mid-19th-century recipe, apple tart with calvados ice cream, or opera cake for dessert with eye-watering prices given the simplicity of the offering. It is by no means the best hotel restaurant nearby and perhaps a better option for a light starter or for dessert. The Verrière (winter garden) also serves food and wine. But the more interesting on-site F&B option that deserves more attention than it gets is the winter garden bar. It’s where you can try the original Dry Martini, made with Tanqueray gin and Noilly Prat, which was created here in 1904 by head bartender Franck Newman. For a more intimate bar experience, you’ll find an American bar, among the first built in Europe, at the back. Breakfast can be taken in the restaurant or at the Club Lounge.
The spa
With the latest renovation came an upgrade to the wellness offering, too: an Algotherm Dermo Ocean Spa. There is also a small fitness room with state-of-the-art machines, but no pool.
The neighborhood/area
It’s hard to find a better location than the Place de l’Opéra. Beyond the obvious landmark, the city’s historic department stores—Galeries Lafayette and Printemps—sit a block away, the Palais Royal Gardens and the Louvre are an easy 15-minute walk in the other direction, and the river is a stone’s throw from there.
The service
Call it five-star service without the pomp and circumstance of most five-stars. The multilingual staff is courteous, young, and very available but doesn’t necessarily exhibit the kind of formality or precious touch of other luxury properties in Paris.
For families
Given the award rate possibilities and number of rooms that can connect for more space, the hotel is well-suited for families.
Accessibility
ADA standards are met.
Anything left to mention?
On the rue Auber side of the hotel, accessible from inside the hotel or from the street, there's a new location of Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse, a smart one-stop shop for fine chocolates.
2 Rue Scribe, Paris, 75009
France
https://www.ihg.com/intercontinental/hotels/us/en/paris/parhb/hoteldetail