Why Book
Set at the end of a pine-clad peninsula in southern Athens, this cool, white, modernist 74-acre enclave is the ultimate escape from the dusty hubbub of the fast-paced capital city. Whereas many destinations in Greece can require a ferry ride or irregular flights, this is an easy hop on a well-served route. Four hours from London and you are eating sea fresh ceviche at its pitch-perfect Helios. With big name restaurants such as Matsuhisa and Beefbar, first rate sports and kids’ facilities in a supremely relaxing setting, there is something to keep most travellers content here, yet you are only 30 minutes from the Parthenon (or party spots of Athens), should you feel the need to roam; for a twin-resort holiday, helicopters ferry guests to and from islands including Spetses or Mykonos. The hotel draws a supremely glam crowd, but warmly embraces families too.
Set the scene
More verdant resort than gritty urban hotel, visitors reach the hotel via serpentine shaded roads, past marinas dotted with mega yachts and cars parked bumper to bumper, offloading sun worshippers to the nearby public beaches. Yet here it is all about privacy. Once through the electric gates, cicadas provide a welcome symphony and a welcome line-up of McLarens and Ferraris muscle up at the entrance. However, all are treated equally by the professional staff and even arrivals such as ours, in tinny hire cars, are whisked into the sleek entrance of the minimalist white building. Set at the top of a hill overlooking pristine pools, white palm-shaded day beds are interspersed with olive trees, and beyond, bobbing boats and dotted islands of Hydra and Aegina can be seen on a clear day. A honey golden beach is quietly populated by families building miniworlds out of sand and Pucci-clad bathers dipping in and out of the ultramarine water. Inland, the immaculate padel and tennis courts are always alive with the thwack of fierce competition. There are two main buildings—the older Arion building holds slightly more affordable rooms and the spa; try to opt for a room in the main Nafsika building. Constructed deep into the hills, most rooms afford sea views and come with a terrace, and this is where the main action takes place (restaurants, kids clubs, etc.).
The backstory
Built initially as cabanas for ship-owning families to cool off over summer (where the current Matsuihsa restaurant is found), the Astir Palace hotel was constructed in 1967 as an upmarket destination for the well-heeled. In 1980, the Nafsika building opened, hosting illustrious guests, including Nelson Mandela and Paul Newman. In 2019, the Four Seasons group took over the resort, following a complete renovation.
The rooms
Continuing the cool, minimalist palette, the majority of rooms are designed to let the outside view shine—with most Nafsika rooms facing the Aegean and featuring full-length sliding doors that lead to a terrace. Warm woods, taupe, and natural touches, such as tables cast from tree roots, create an organic feel. The bathrooms feature top-to-toe marble, freestanding baths, and walk-in showers. Families might want to opt for the spacious ground-level bungalows, which offer split living space, as well as a kitchen and either a plunge pool or a private pool. The Arion rooms can be ‘pine’ facing, i.e., away from the spectacular view, but come with modernist touches, a smooth grey and oatmeal palette, and clean lines.
Food and Drink
Very impressive with a roll call of big names over its eight dining options. A ten-minute stroll around the bay takes you to the consistently popular Matsuhisa Athens, where a celebratory air and DJs make it one of the most enduringly popular spots in town. You might come for the perfectly executed maki rolls and crispy salmon, but most come for people watching. Also drawing a convivial crowd is Monte Carlo import Beefbar, famed for its flame-grilled steaks. We loved the salt-baked catch of the day at laid-back, family-friendly Taverna 37 and the breakfast spread at Martin Brudinski Design Studio, prettified Mercato—with healthy quinoa and salad bowls alongside less abstemious spanakopita and mounds of freshly churned cashew butter slathered onto homemade bagels. Helios is the poolside Latin American lunch spot—where glistening slivers of yellowtail and citrus-touched ceviches with corn provide welcome relief from the midday sun. Join the orderly queue at the gelato stand at Kyma bar for an afternoon salted caramel or raspberry ice.
The spa
Offering more acres of cool, white marble, the 24-meter pool area is a lifesaver during cooler months (in May, the outdoor pool was heated but still quite chilly in cloudy weather) with a majestic wall of Calacatata, warm plunge pools, and steam rooms. Locally inspired treatments include a facial with rose oil from boutique Cretan brand Bioaroma, derived from ancient organic farming methods, while Biologique Recherche delivers pioneering skin solutions via high-tech equipment, such as its slimming massages. There are also plenty of quick pre-party boosters, such as an LED mask and a post-flight wrinkle-reducing face mask. There is also a hair and nail salon. The gym—which overlooks the pool and Helios bar—is, as you expect with the clientele, well populated, with numerous PTs available to help during opening hours and offering a roster of excellent classes such as Pilates and core as well as personal training. Head to the pristine Tipsarevic Luxury Tennis Club, founded by Serbian player Janko Tipsarevic, to be put through your paces.
The neighbourhood
The peaceful setting offers respite from the mayhem of inner-city Athens, and there may not be Acropolis views, but the ancient site is easily reachable by taxi for a half-day’s trip. The Astir Marina is awash with soigné shoppers and yachties—boutiques such as Dior and Louis Vuitton line the parade. Boat trips with the hotel’s fleet of luxury liners or a heli ride take you island-hopping to Hydra and Spetses. It’s a 10-minute drive to the “Athens Riviera” at Glyfada beach, with other upscale destinations such as One & Only Aesthesis, cocktail bars, and farmers’ markets.
The service
Efficient front desk; our luggage took an age to come up, but they dealt with it well and were very apologetic. Restaurant staff remember your daily orders and help divert tantrums at breakfast—worth its weight in gold. They could be more rigorous/ efficient at freeing up beds by the (very busy) pool that have been bagged over lunch (look to the excellent Costa Navarino Romanos for their super-efficient policy on this one), but generally pretty faultless.
Eco effort
EV charging stations, water heated by solar water heaters, an organic waste program, and the elimination of single-use plastics.
Accessibility
Access for guests with disabilities includes 10 rooms that are adapted for wheelchair users, located in both Nafsika and Arion. Both buildings and all public areas are serviced by lifts.
Family
There’s a compact but clean kids’ club well placed next to the gym and opposite Helios beach restaurant, so tots can (if you give them permission!) run freely in and out between courses over a leisurely lunch. With walls full of wooden toys and tables overflowing with crafts, from making Greek theatre dioramas to dream catchers, little hands are kept well away from screens here. It may not be the sort of place you wish to leave them all day, but it serves well for a few hours. Rooms come with Botanist & The Chemist toiletries, miniature fluffy robes, a signature purple starfish soft toy, and copious sweet treats, from white chocolate caryatids to cones of M&M’s.
Anything left to mention
There are some excellent extra-curricular activities available. Our daughter learnt how to draw comic strips with an Athenian cartoon artist and was keen to try the photography course and stargazing. The boutiques are excellent—look out for homegrown brands such as Ate Neo shoes (that give Birkenstock a run for their money) at the beachside store.
Apollonos 40, Athens, 166 71
Greece
https://www.fourseasons.com/athens/
+30 21 0890 1000