Why book
Is it a farm? A garden? A spa hotel? It’s all of the above. Since 2010, Babylonstoren has drawn day-trippers and luxury farm stay seekers to its sun-kissed swathe of land in the Cape Winelands, whitewashed Cape Dutch architecture, monumental gardens with incredible biodiversity, and delectable farm-to-table dining. Across its 1,070-hectare spread—holding everything from edible gardens to cheese rooms and wine cellars—the options to spend your time are near-endless. Our tip? Pick wisely for your first trip and plan to return for all the rest. Because you will want to return, mere minutes after you arrive.
Set the scene
On any given day, Babylonstoren is a hive of activity: kids gravitating towards the donkey enclosure (who am I kidding–even I headed there the minute I dropped my bags off in the room); families streaming out of the gelato shop or the cafe; Capetonians coming up for air and biltong and Bitterlekker (or a seasonal harvest box) from the farm shop. It’s almost impossible to tell who’s actually staying here until you’re at dinner, once the crowds have melted away. And there’s a joy in that, in knowing that Babylonstoren has extended itself in ways that allow more than just a chosen few hotel guests to avail of its bounty. Besides, there’s plenty of space to go around, and even on the busiest days, I had no trouble finding a quiet corner—at one point I found myself all alone in the Healing Garden crosslegged on the floor of a bamboo hut; another day, I was the only person floating on a tractor tube in a salt-water outdoor pool. And in those reflective moments, with a little sunbird or the scent of the honeybush for company, I felt the most calm and grounded I’d been in a very long time.
The backstory
The history of Babylonstoren goes back to the tail end of the 17th century when it was established as a wheat and wine farm. Babylonstoren translates to "Babylon's Tower" in Afrikaans, the name originating from the farm's Dutch settler founders, who, upon seeing a hill on the property, were reminded of the biblical Tower of Babel. Having undergone many lives since, it landed in the hands of the former editor of Elle Decor South Africa Karen Roos and her husband Koos Bekker in 2007. Since then, the hotel has grown exponentially in size and offering, from a weekend retreat of the family to a 14-room farmstay in 2010 with fruit and vegetable gardens to what is now 33 rooms and cottages spread across land that extends into the mountains. What separates Babylonstoren from the many, many wineries and exceptional hotels in and around the Winelands though is its 12-acre garden, designed by French garden architect Patrice Taravella, that has since been nurtured and nourished by an incredible team of landscapists and horticulturists. It is at the heart of the entire complex—from the spa to the scent shop and the kitchen—and takes the form of 15 clusters spanning vegetable areas, citrus (which you’re encouraged to pick and eat), berries, and ducks and chickens. It’s a real labor of love—and I spent every extra minute exploring a different part of it—the prickly pear maze or the herbarium, tracing my steps alongside shallow channels of water that act as the veins of the garden. It isn’t just an incredibly good looking garden; it’s a hugely productive one—and the abundance of the freshest produce at every meal proves it.
One of the latest additions to the property is Soetmelksvlei, an interactive 1890s Cape-style farmstead that’s designed to be an immersive experience for guests. A short drive away from the main farmhouse, it offers a range of experiences that include milking cows and churning butter, but also has a restaurant where you can stop for a hearty farm lunch and a shop for old-world keepsakes. Think of it as a diorama with a glimpse into a gentler, long-past time.
The rooms
There are 33 sets of accommodations at Babylonstoren, and each cluster offers something a little different, but they all retain historic details like farm doors, fireplaces, thick stone walls—and a whole pile of romance. I stayed in one of the Farmhouse Suites, a compound of rooms with thick whitewashed walls all centered around a sparkling pool under a canopy of trees and vines, a green library known as the Butterfly Room that contained a rare collection of books and butterflies, and a glass shed with a 24-hour steaming jacuzzi and sauna, which was one of the nicest late-evening perks I’ve enjoyed recently. My room had a four-poster bed, a cast-iron stove and a luxuriant bathroom with a set of two freestanding baths and a large farmhouse sink. The decor is minimal but chic—you’ll spot some Philippe Starck—that’s designed for restful time indoors, but also to remind you of nature’s bonanza at your doorstep. The rooster that woke me up each morning also did the trick.
For folks who prefer not to be in the thick of things, a short buggy ride (that you can drive yourself) away, above the orchards and in a totally private part of the property, takes you to six newer Fynbos Cottages. These come with glass-clad kitchenettes, a tucked-away swimming pool, bicycles to explore the valley (and a beautiful dam), and glorious views of the Babylonstoren estate. It’s also the perfect place to be ensconced in the natural plant habitat (the heathland vegetation after which the cottages are named) of the Western Cape’s mountains.
Food & Drink
You don’t have to peel the curtains too far back to understand the complex operation that undergirds this property, because much of it is in plain sight. From a dairy operation to a cheesery, butchery, and coffee roastery, the distance from farm to your table is the shortest it could be. And what Babylonstoren doesn’t grow on site, it sources from local farmers and artisans. In fact, it’s worth booking a night at the hotel for breakfast alone: At Babel, the main restaurant—itself a stunning, vaulted space, with enormous art calling out its previous life as a cow shed—long tables groan under bright, fresh plates of figs and prickly pears, jewel-toned juices, and house-made breads and cheeses; cooked options change daily and keep you guessing. I found myself jumping out of bed for my bowlfuls of water buffalo yoghurt with homemade baked granola and generous drizzles of golden local honey.
No matter the meal, seasonal harvests take centerstage here and everything on the menu at Babel is led by the garden and farm: For the best experience, sit outside in the courtyard, under a trellis of vines, where you’ll be treated to uninterrupted view of the gardens and the mountains beyond. There’s also the Greenhouse Café set in the garden, and closer to the spa, where you can sit on sun-dappled wrought iron chairs and feast on gazpachos and foraged salads or freshly churned seasonal sorbets. (If you’re traveling in a group, ask if you can have a private lunch in the greenhouse—it’s very special.) If you’re not in the mood to sit down for a meal, you can fill your belly with bits from the on-site farm shop—I visited daily for the Bitterlekker, a Babylonstoren-made sparkling non-alcoholic aperitif combining blood orange, grapefruit, and honeybush tea—or the bakery for everything from English scones to pastéis de nata. Whatever you do, leave room for the ultra-creamy gelato, made from fresh buffalo milk (the spiced rooibos flavor worked a treat).
A word on the wines: The farm sits on rich Franschhoek terroir (one of the most recognizable destinations in wine tourism) in the shadow of the Simonsberg mountains, so there’s plenty to be relished, from cabernets to merlots, viognier and chenin blanc. To really appreciate what you’re drinking, head out on a cellar wine tour and food pairing experience. There’s also an olive oil tasting and tour during which you can create your own—I dare you not to return home with a couple tins of Babylonstoren’s finest; it’s one of my pantry go-tos.
The service
The staff here are ever so kind, and bound by the same joy and passion for food and nature as the people that visit. Special thanks to the servers at Babel who accommodated my late arrival (past closing) with one of the best first meals I’ve had (a delicious fillet of fish served with fresh olives, and a frankly showstopping oven-roasted squash, washed down with a glass of viognier) to the gardener who picked me a handful of luscious guava as I walked through the avenue of old-growth guava trees, and Brent who peppered our wine tour with his engaging storytelling (and gallows humor–”what happens if you fall into that vat? You get a full-bodied wine”) and the many guides and workers here who lead towards what they want your experience to be, but allow you the space to create your version of it.
For families
For groups that like their holidays busy and their kids occupied, there is no place like this. From garden foraging to bread and cheese making and buffalo farm tours, there’s little that Babylonstoren doesn’t offer. If unorganized, free-range fun is more your vibe, kids will adore running around the ducks, geese, and squirrels, as well as feeding the donkeys or the fish in the pond—with gelato breaks thrown in for good measure. Guests can also order a packed lunch to explore the area on a bike, borrowed for free. One of the highlights for me was the drive in a 4×4 up to the top of the hills to watch the setting sun coat the mountains pink and cast a purple shadow across the vast and picturesque valley, accompanied by wines and nibbles, of course (the hotel’s babysitting service is on call to take care of the kids during this time). Once outside the walls of the more manicured farm, you really get a sense of the rugged beauty of the Western Capeland with its ancient wild olives, wild honey bush, and eucalyptus and oak trees.
When the kids (and adults) are all petered out, the Fynbos family house, with its five bedrooms and a pool in a central courtyard, is the perfect resting place—and large enough for every member to find a place of welcome refuge. The kitchen comes pre-stocked with oils and wine that will pair beautifully with a rosemary and sea salt fougasse and buffalo mozzarella cheese from the farm shop before you tuck in for the night.
The Spa
I will admit that I hummed and hawed before I booked an afternoon at the spa, thinking it would drag me away from the outdoors and into a confined space. I’m glad I gave in, because, like the rest of Babylonstoren, the spa, which is built of bamboo, is inextricably linked to the garden. When you enter through a bamboo grove lined with water channels, a water-inspired mural greets you; the hamman, a centerpiece here, is dressed in tones of botanical green; and the sprawling indoor-outdoor swimming pool has running waterfalls (and an in-built fireplace). I had a herbal poultice massage, a relaxing treatment with heated poultices and warmed massage oil that nearly put me to sleep. To really feel ensconced in your surroundings, opt for the garden herbal journey, where you start with a relaxing foot bath with fresh garden herbs whilst sipping on Babylonstoren garden herbal tea, and conclude with a facial cleansing ritual.
The neighborhood
Both Franschhoek and Stellenbosch are easily accessed—offering great wine tasting, art galleries, and a vibrant cafe and restaurant scene—but unless you have the days to spare, you’ll be loath to leave Babylonstoren’s myriad treasures. I mean, it’s basically the size of a small town.
Eco Effort
Safe to say, Babylonstoren runs a pretty convincing sustainably-minded operation. One of my first questions was about what happened to all the fruit and veg that didn’t get consumed, and was told that any surplus would go into jams and preserves for the farm shop—I later spotted an “apple waste sourdough” on its shelves. From the irrigation systems that keep the gardens whole to the use of plant-based plastic alternatives and aluminum for packaging, and the solar panelling they’re phasing in for their energy needs to their investment in the region’s natural renosterveld vegetation, this is a hotel that genuinely cares about its impact on the environment as a working farm. In fact, their appeal and value is hinged to it.
Accessibility
Babylonstoren offers wheelchair-accessible parking spaces and some areas like Babel and the Greenhouse restaurants and the tasting rooms have accessible entrances and restrooms. However, much of the garden pathway that winds through the property is uneven and not ideal for wheelchairs.
Anything else to mention?
If you love your stay here, consider BLOU in Keurbooms (only open to previous Babylonstoren guests) for your next holiday, which perches eight self-catering cottages on the edge of the beach at Keurboomstrand near Plettenberg Bay. Much further out, there’s also sister estate The Newt, a reimagined English country estate in Somerset with lush gardens and luxury spa that (soft) screams restful indulgence.
Babylonstoren Farm, Babylonstoren Road, Franschhoek
South Africa
https://babylonstoren.com/