Set the scene
On an island that bursts at the seams during the summer months, its pretty cobbled streets packed out with eager honeymooners and cruise shippers, this is a lesson in keeping things low-key. There’s no ugly ‘private property’ sign here – you’ll only just spot the sign for the hotel, which leads down towards the twinkly Aegean from the main road to Oia (easily Santorini’s loveliest village). A brutalist polished-concrete block houses the reception, which is tempting to bypass completely for a first proper look at the view – the scrubby farm land and dinky, classic churches, backed by the sea can be gawped at without interruption from the lobby’s cleverly placed terrace.
What's the story?
The Andronis hotel group has been turning Santorini’s hotel scene on its head for a few years, staying resolutely away from the island’s standard whitewashed cave-hotel formula. Inland, Andronis Concept was widely-talked about when it opened in 2017 – imposing, rugged structures and a wellness focus you’d more likely find on Ibiza are quite the statement on an island that has been trading on a certain Cycladic vibe for so long. A second property, Andronis Luxury Suites, is a similarly all-natural take on this classic spot for loved-up island-hoppers. Andronis Arcadia, then, is the group’s sceney little sister. A sweeping infinity pool is the buzzy epicentre of the hotel: with a bar carved into the poolside, floating day beds, a resident DJ and a beach-club feel.
The rooms
Space and privacy are serious luxuries on what has to be the most popular Greek island, but Andronis Arcadia packs both into its sprawling, villagey estate. Standard rooms are like souped-up beach shacks: polished floors, rattan details, wicker chairs and all-neutral fabrics make for a deeply soothing retreat from the busy streets outside. Bathrooms are joltingly dark at first, with deep-brown walls and black baths, but after a day in the bright-bright Cycladic sunshine, heading for a shower feels like retreating to your own cosseting spa room. If you want more space, there are a handful of villas with two or four bedrooms to take over as your own. Really, though, it’s about that view – Santorini is probably best known for its sunsets, with hordes of coach-trippers making the schlep to Oia for those famous pastel skies. Here, every single room faces west, and opens onto a private terrace with its own pool. A prettier spot for a sundowner away from the crowds you’re unlikely to find anywhere in the Greek islands.
Food and drink
Back to the beach-club-meets pool-bar for supper, which is served in the indoor-outdoor restaurant, and is really two options in one. People-pleasing Mediterranean classics are on the Greek menu at Althea (crispy calamari, Greek mezze, fresh-caught fish) or there’s Japanese fusion at grown-up sushi bar Oishii. Upstairs, rooftop restaurant Opson offers a traditional Greek menu – really traditional, serving dishes inspired by the tastes and ingredients of Ancient Greece. For supper with a serious view, Lycabettus (at the Andronis Suites outpost just up the road) looks out over preposterously pretty Oia – just be sure to book for after the sun goes down, as it faces east. Breakfast, served overlooking the pool, is à la carte – order virtuous avocado on rye (take the waiter’s advice and add a side of beetroot-infused smoked salmon) or try the fresh-made waffle with banana.
The service
Staff in utilitarian, Hunger Games-style uniforms, are faultless at check-in, chatting happily about the island as they take guests’ details. If your companion slips away for a phone call at the dinner table, a waiter cheerily keeps you company until they return. Service has been fine-tuned to the island’s high proportion of American guests – British travellers might be put off by the instant intimacy, but it’s never forced.
Who comes here?
Young, beautiful couples drinking cocktails and sharing a day bed at the main pool as the sun goes down. Well-heeled guests from other Andronis hotels who have heard about one of the pool-side parties (there was a live saxophonist when we stayed). Those who aren’t quite ready to give up DJs and champagne on a school night.
The neighbourhood
Despite feeling set apart completely from the seasonal madness of Santorini’s bigger villages, Andronis Arcadia is less than five minutes’ walk from Oia. Coach-loads of sunset-hungry tourists pack out the streets from the late afternoon, so we recommend making an early pilgrimage. In the morning, the streets are almost empty and you’ll get the best viewpoints almost to yourself. Sweet restaurants and shops open closer to noon, as the streets begin to hum – but as things get really busy, retreat back to the private pool. It all quietens down again once the sun dips below the horizon. Colourful Amoudi Bay, also within walking distance, is the spot for swimming in the sea (there’s a little platform for brave dive bombers) and the island capital of Fira is a short drive away.
Anything you'd change?
The music in the restaurant can be a little loud if you’re there for a chatty, relaxed supper rather than a big night.
And anything else we should know?
There’s a lovely spa hidden away from the rest of the hotel with a handful of treatment rooms, a terrace for morning yoga sessions and a menu of treatments that runs from facials to ancient rituals such as a crystal massage.
Is it worth it?
For a truly relaxing island getaway, there’s a calmness to Andronis Arcadia that can’t be found in many spots on the caldera, while you’re close enough to the action not to feel isolated. Actually, it would be worth it just for the view.
Andronis Arcadia, Oia, Santorini –
Greece
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