Why book?
For a swanky stay overlooking the Ionian Sea in a former 14th-century monastery rich with religious, art, and pop culture history.
Set the scene
The White Lotus has been appointment television for my husband and me since the first season dropped in July 2021—back when we were still boyfriend and girlfriend, travel was still a foreign concept post-COVID, and Jennifer Coolidge was still best known for Legally Blonde. So when planning our 2025 wedding in Tuscany and deciding where to go for a mini-moon after, Taormina—the Sicilian hotspot behind White Lotus season two—was an easy “sì, per favore.” Also a no-brainer? Booking a few nights at San Domenico Palace, Taormina, A Four Seasons Hotel, where the second season was filmed.
We arrived at the property in late October, exhausted from many late wedding nights (no complaints, of course), and instantly relaxed as we were given a tour of the mind-numbingly beautiful three-Michelin-Key property after check-in. Set on a cliff overlooking Taormina Bay—Mount Etna in one direction, the Greek Theater in another—there was something in the air that let us know we were someplace special. Long, arched hallways lead to the guest rooms, restaurants, castle-like lounge spaces, and even an ancient cloister from the former monastery. More than 500 pieces of art, most commissioned by monks between the 1500s and 1800s, decorate the property, making it feel just as much like a museum as a hotel.
Our last stop before heading to our suite was outside to take a peek at the iconic infinity pool, perched on a promontory with sea-blue views for miles. For the past few summers, San Domenico Palace has teamed up with Dolce & Gabbana to deck out the pool deck with the fashion brand’s Blu Mediterraneo pattern, covering the chaises, cabanas, towels, umbrellas, floaties, and more with the Southern Italy–inspired motif. I decided then and there that we would need to spend an entire afternoon sunning poolside, and that we did on our very last day in Taormina.
The backstory
San Domenico Palace has lived many lives since it was first constructed in 1374 as a San Dominican monastery. In 1866, ownership was turned over to Prince Domenico Rosso di Cerami following a new Italian law suppressing religious orders. After the Sicilian nobleman added a large wing in 1896, one of Europe’s first grand hotels was born, and business started booming almost immediately as Taormina was quickly becoming a popular vacation spot for European tourists.
The hotel remained well-regarded through the beginning of the 20th century, with many famous faces across industries passing through its doors. But when World War II began, the property was taken as a headquarters for the German army. It was bombed by the Allies in 1943, and parts—such as the convent’s church—were almost entirely destroyed. Reconstruction efforts took place over the next few years, and it opened as a hotel once again in 1946—over-the-top parties ensued, with tales of Allies and locals dancing into the night.
In the years since, the hotel has hosted Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren, and plenty more international starlets, as well as royal family members and well-known politicians. It became a Four Seasons property in 2021, right before being used as the main location for The White Lotus season two, which filmed in early 2022.
The rooms
There are 111 rooms and suites scattered across the property, each ranging in size from approximately 301 to 1,507 square feet. The beauty of these spaces—and the hotel in general—is how well they’ve managed to mix the old with the new. Many of the guest rooms are former monks' quarters, and Italian architect Valentina Pisani, who oversaw the interiors, carefully maintained their history as sanctuary-like spaces while ensuring that every 21st-century luxury was accounted for. Expect marble bathrooms with rain showers and Lorenzo Villoresi toiletries, smoked glass mirrors making the space feel bigger and brighter, floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the sea, and deliciously crisp white linens on the beds.
We were lucky enough to stay in one of San Domenico Palace’s sea-view suites with a plunge pool, which meant our back door led out to a spacious patio with a small table, two chaise lounges, and a dipping pool that looked like it bled out into the Ionian, surrounded by potted palms and tiled dividers. We spent many hours in the heated water with chilled vino, imagining we were billionaires on board the bobbing boats in the distance.
Food and drink
There are four main eateries at San Domenico Palace: Bar & Chiostro, where you can grab an aperitivo in the hotel’s sunny center courtyard; Rosso, an Italian spot where breakfast is served; Anciovi, a seafood restaurant set steps from the pool; and Principe Cerami, their Michelin-starred pièce de résistance with a tasting menu all foodies put on their bucket lists (says me).
Principe Cerami, named after the aforementioned prince who converted the property into a hotel, really is worth writing home about. Tucked away in a swanky room behind a grand piano that White Lotus fans will surely recognize, the space and service will make you feel like you, too, are a Sicilian noble. As an admittedly picky eater, I’m typically skeptical about fine dining experiences, but the dishes I tried here were as accessible as they were delicious. I was lucky enough to be in town for truffle season, so I tried the limited-time white truffle tasting menu. Combined with the delicious Sicilian wine pairings, those four courses may just have changed my life.
The complimentary breakfast served in Rosso every morning was also one of the best I’ve ever seen—especially when paired with the views from the terrace, where you can drink in views of Taormina Bay while you sip your cappuccino. A server takes orders for à la carte frittatas, French toast slices, and other classic morning dishes, or you can head to the buffet for fresh fruit, bread (there’s a Dolce & Gabbana Smeg toaster on hand, naturally), pastries, cheeses, and juices. My favorite stop on the breakfast tour, however, was the brioche con gelato stand, where a staff member was scooping up the traditional Sicilian treat.
The spa
Walk down the steps toward the pool, turn left, and you’ll be facing the staircase leading down to the Botanica Spa. Opened in July 2024, the space features an indoor pool, male and female saunas and steam rooms, and five treatment rooms where skilled practitioners perform Sicilian-inspired beauty and wellness rituals from the impressive spa menu, most of which use locally sourced products.
One of the five treatment rooms is for couples, and my husband and I, weary from a week-plus of wedding madness, stopped in for a couples massage during our stay. I would have been happy to relax for hours in the double treatment room, which had a separate lounge space plus a private bathroom and shower suite. We opted for aromatherapy massages, and were enveloped by the essence of Sicilian zagara (bitter orange flowers) for 60 glorious minutes.
The neighborhood/area
Taormina’s city center is tourist central—even during the shoulder season, I quickly learned—but San Domenico Palace’s location is somehow both steps from the action and out of the way all at the same time. Leave out the front door of the property, and you’ll be a few staircases away from Corso Umberto, Taormina’s popular pedestrian thoroughfare, home to leather shops, gelaterias, antique stores, bars slinging spritzes, and Piazza IX Aprile, the town’s main square. Go out one of the back doors and past the lush gardens, and you’ll be met with gobsmacking views of the Ionian Sea as far as the eye can see. Look far enough to your right, and Mount Etna will make herself known, billowy smoke settling around her peak like a fluffy cloud. If you have the chance, I highly recommend booking a day trip to visit the volcano (we loved this Jeep excursion) and hike across its dusty rock terrain—you’ll feel like you’re on the moon.
The service
Impeccable. Expect your suitcases to arrive in your suite before you do, your poolside cocktail to be replenished before you take your last sip, your room to always look freshly organized no matter how messy you leave it, and your Principe Cerami plates to be served with a flourish. We had one awkward incident where a doorman stopped us as we were entering and asked if we were staying at the hotel—but in his defense, I was taking lots of photos of the entrance (for this review), we were wearing hiking gear (for our Etna excursion), and I’m sure there are plenty of White Lotus fans eager to snoop around without booking a room.
For families
While the property’s vibe is undeniably adult (between the centuries-old artifacts, antique paintings, and cream furniture, there’s a lot I wouldn’t want my hypothetical kid to touch), San Domenico Palace does welcome children with open arms. Children’s amenities and cribs are available upon request, as are babysitting services, should you like to take off on a grown-ups-only adventure. We saw a few families with grade-school-aged children during our stay, and I will say they were all exceptionally well-behaved. It didn’t seem like this was their first Four Seasons.
Eco effort
Sustainability initiatives include the elimination of single-use plastics, eco-certified cleaning products, water refilling stations across the property, responsibly sourced ingredients and wine at the restaurants and bars, water-efficient landscaping, and replacing linens and towels every third day. Guests can also rent electric vehicles and participate in educational tours to learn more about the local community and land.
Accessibility
San Domenico Palace follows European Union accessibility regulations, and there are several accessible guest rooms with adapted bathrooms available to book. Because it’s a historic property, some guests might find mobility limitations due to the architecture, but secondary pathways have been built across the property to maximize accessibility.
Anything left to mention?
Be sure to spend some time in the ancient cloister. You can feast your eyes on stunning restored frescoes and plop down in the peaceful courtyard surrounded by gorgeous gardens. It’s a breathtaking spot to read a book, meditate quietly, or contemplate all your life decisions (for example, “why don’t I live in Italy?”) as the breeze hits your face.
Piazza San Domenico, 5, Sicily 98039
Italy
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