Why book?
For bucketfuls of aristocratic Upstate New York elegance and contemporary hospitality—all centered around a stone manor house and an excellent restaurant.
Set the scene
The drive into the hamlet of Amenia, where Troutbeck is located, sets you up quite nicely for what’s to follow. Rolling fields, horse farms and old-growth trees, as well as the Southern Taconic mountains beyond—this is a bucolic corner of Dutchess County, a hop and skip over from Connecticut’s undulating Litchfield county and less than a two-hour drive from Manhattan by car. It's very convenient, then, for life-weary New Yorkers, for whom there’s plenty on offer at this dreamy, 250-acre landscape beautifully bisected by the Webutuck River and Dunham Creek. At the heart of it is the manor, lovingly restored by Anthony and Charlotte Champalimaud (Anthony’s mother is famed designer Alexandra Champalimaud) filled with all the building blocks of an aristocratic country inn: original wood paneling, a roaring fireplace, bookshelves that spill over, cozy corner banquettes, and 19th-century oils of unspecified dogs and landscapes. The Manor House is at the heart of Troutbeck, and entering it feels like you’ve been invited into someone's country home (doesn’t everyone have fantasies of having that friend?), and guests—myself included—waste no time in making themselves right at home.
Inside, you will find young couples heads-down over a game of chess; kids sprawled across oversized leather couches, books in hand; and convivial gatherings of friends in the dining room. Be warned that you will be tempted to never leave the confines of the house, but there’s much to discover beyond it—old cork trees strung up with hammocks, a river teeming with trout, charming bridges that make the perfect reading spots, a US Open-surfaced tennis court, a pool lined with cabanas, and walking and biking trails leading out into nearby towns and state parks. When all is said and done and it’s time to return home, you’re guaranteed to wish you never had to leave.
The backstory
Troutbeck is one of those properties that is inseparably linked to the history of the town of Amenia, which has attracted historians, writers, and social reformers since the 1700s—many of whom actually stayed and worked in Troutbeck. Over the centuries, it has been a private home, an estate, a country inn, and a tavern, and in the 20th century, became something of a hub for the civil rights movement, hosting two critical early meetings of the NAACP known as the Amenia conferences. W.E.B. Du Bois wrote an account of these, calling particular attention to the level of hospitality he received from Troutbeck's then-owner, Joel Springarn. It's this incredible antiquity and history that guided the Champalimauds (who are only the fourth owners of the property) when they remodeled the estate in 2018.
But be clear, nothing about the property is fusty or overwrought: the Champalimauds have layered contemporary expression over historic bones. Original moldings, door knobs, and wood paneling have been preserved, but spaces have been shaped for contemporary use including made disabled-accessible. Public rooms at the back of the Manor House feature contemporary photography from nearby artist residency Wassaic Project; guest rooms are built with clean lines, vibrant walls, and modern amenities; and a 1,250-square-foot modern barn beyond the pool offers a diverse slate of wellness services and programs.
The rooms
The 37 guest rooms and suites at Troutbeck are spread across the main Manor House, a Garden House abutting a walled English garden, Benton House that’s set amongst wild flowers and willows, and Benton Cottage, a modernized four-bedroom cottage complete with a living room and kitchenette that can be reserved as a whole. None of these extensions are more than a short walk away from the Manor House (the walks alone bring great pleasure), and all of them are thoughtfully furnished. We stayed in the Sycamore Suite in the Manor House, which came with a living area, bedroom, bathroom, and—the pièce de résistance—an enclosed sunroom with the most gorgeous light and a capacious standalone bathtub.
No matter the room, you can expect an air of grace minus the pretension. Ours, for instance, came with spotty stained glass windows and well-loved tables, but there’s also Frette linens and Malin + Goetz bath products—and, notably, no art on the walls to distract you. From our room, the common spaces of the house were a quick skip down the stairs. If you want your accommodations to come with pin-drop silence, pick a room that’s not in the main house, where you will hear the comings and goings of staff as they set up (and pack up) for the day; albeit quite muffled, if you’re a poor sleeper you might prefer one of the cottages further afield. The flip side of that argument, though, is that you will get to live amid the house’s heightened charm and history—take your pick.
Food and drink
While there’s just one (very good) restaurant on the premises, the dining spaces here are plentiful: there’s the main restaurant with its leather banquettes, contemporary art, and abundant windows. Then, across the library, a more relaxed south-facing sunroom, with cafe-style seating and the garden beyond. There’s also an outdoor verandah perfect for lazy breakfasts (unless you prefer to take yours in bed, and who could blame you)—and if you peer further out, there are tucked-away tables below on the lawn for really private, al-fresco meals.
The main restaurant, simply called the Dining Room, received a lot of attention during the renovation. It spotlights seasonal, locally-sourced produce from farms in nearby Millbrook, Millerton, and Hudson. During our time there, we were treated to a three-course chef’s tasting menu that was a paean to the summer; think a profusion of tomatoes, stone fruit, local soft cheeses, and edible flowers. Another endearing dining feature at the property is its honesty pantry containing drinks and snacks to go and a coffee station for early risers—guests can feel free to pad about any time of day or night.
The neighborhood/area
Let me be honest: If you’re here only for a short while, you’ll find little reason to tear yourself away from the pool, the cozy library nooks, and dare I say, your canopy bed (my own sunroom chaise also got a lot of use). But that’d be a bit of a shame, because this corner of the Hudson Valley, less trod-through than its northern and western counterparts, is absolutely beautiful. For the outdoors-inclined there's fly-fishing, hiking and cycling, and even river-rafting—plus skiing in the Mohawk and Catamount Mountains in winter months. Nearby towns offer treasures, too: In Wassaic, check out art residency and non-profit gallery Wassaic Project, which Troutbeck collaborates with, as well as Tenmile Distillery, a small-batch whisky producer with engaging house tours, apple orchards primed for picnicking, and a rotating food truck. When we visited, Westerly Canteen has a Chez Panisse-honed chef in residence, and we enjoy summer beans and battered fish in the orchard whilst sipping on a City Rickey; a delicious concoction of gin, orange liquor, and bubbles. In Millbrook, pop in for happy hours at Canoe Hill, a hip wine bar; there’s also Barbaro, known for its wood-fired pizza. Saunter through Innisfree, an exquisitely maintained, hundred-year-old Asian garden. Closer by in Amenia, pop into Tent to be tempted by ceramics and rugs, and get midday pastries at Peggy’s, a sweet little bakery in the center of town.
The service
From the moment you enter and until you leave, you will notice again and again the warm friendliness of staff who are trained to attend to your every need—but also know exactly when to leave you alone. It’s a fine balance that allows you to set the pace of your stay but remain comforted in the knowledge that a helping hand is never far away. Do ask for staff suggestions on what to do in and around the area—our own itinerary was entirely guided by Troutbeck’s staff, and their tips were always spot on.
For families
The property is perfectly suited for child-free vacations, but is far from an adult-only retreat. The pool, especially, remains a locus for families—weekends find day visitors from local towns coming in with their kids, making it a hive of activity. Troutbeck also offers plenty of creative programming for kids from baking classes to artist-led workshops and other craft sessions that adults will find equally pleasurable to attend. And its young, easygoing staff, around the pool, but also in its dining areas, are noticeably great with children.
For multi-generation families that want to stay together, Benton Cottage offers the perfect base, containing four bedrooms and bathrooms, a living room, dining room, kitchen, and enclosed back yard.
The spa
A short stroll past the pool and tennis courts stand a tall, Scandi-style structure made of reclaimed timber they call the Barn, and this is home to all of Troutbeck’s wellness services. I tried both an immersive sound bath that completely removed me from my surroundings, as well as a 60-minute deep tissue massage, and was left wishing I had picked a few more out of the wellness roster, which included everything from mat Pilates to dance therapy and yoga. There’s also a rather beautiful gym attached, which made me regret not packing for it.
Accessibility
There is a fully accessible ground-floor suite located in the Manor House, and two fully accessible ground floor suites in Benton House. The Manor House also comes with a fully accessible ramp and a push-button door activator on entry. All public reception areas, dining and meeting rooms within the Manor House are accessible by a standard dimension wheelchair, as is the outdoor pool.
Anything left to mention?
On a quiet evening, ask staff to set you up at one of seven—yes, seven—onsite campsites with fire pits. Our favorite was The Beach, a flat piece of riverbank perfect for postprandial wine and s’mores. After, tuck yourself into a hammock and gaze up at the stars; you wouldn’t be blamed for falling right asleep.
515 Leedsville Rd., Amenia, New York 12501
United States
http://www.troutbeck.com/
(845) 789-1555