Why book?
To experience a renovated 17th-century monastery that’s been given a reverential glow-up.
Set the scene
Donna Camilla Savelli is tucked away down one of Trastevere’s few quiet streets, offering a peaceful retreat in this famously boisterous neighborhood. This is undoubtedly the lure for its eclectic clientele, who are all professional sightseers—their days starting early and running long, with no monument going unsnapped. The reception desk is dominated by older women in pastels planning their day with the staff while their husbands tut at the Financial Times (newspapers can be delivered to your breakfast table each morning) from the couches in the lobby. Come evening, the same exhausted set can be found enjoying an aperitivo in the courtyard garden, barely speaking, happy for the silence and somewhere to rest their sore feet. It’s beautiful, tranquil, and contemplative—the sort of place where guests sit in the garden to refresh their souls, not nurse a hangover.
The backstory
Baroque architecture buffs will be delighted to learn that the building that houses Donna Camilla Savelli was originally designed by Francesco Borromini, and shares a lot of DNA with Sant’Agnese in Agone and Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza, which the famed architect was also responsible for. Boutique hotel group VRetreats has done a superb job of painting around the building’s past, restoring the original frescoes and maintaining the four-hundred-year-old sculpted arch, which grants access to the stark white lobby. The original chapel endures, overseen by three nuns who offer mass to the faithful. If prayers before pancakes aren’t your thing, you can get your history fix from the Fountain of the Angioletto, which bubbles away in the beautiful gardens outside.
The rooms
There’s a wide array of rooms on offer, with the most basic type accessed down a small lane adjacent to the hotel. They’re clean and comfortable, but small—especially the bathrooms, which veer towards cramped. Stepping up through the price range moves guests into rooms in the main body of the hotel, with more space and views over the gardens or the alleys of Trastevere.
Whatever the room, the decor can be described as “classic,” with terra-cotta tiles on the floors, beamed ceilings, and woven wall panels full of fluttering birds and flowers. It’s all in keeping with the building’s history, but can feel a little sparse—especially if you’re used to grander establishments. Minibars, televisions, and tablets with a city guide app come as standard, but if you’re after a Nespresso machine or a bathtub, you’ll need to upgrade to the Premiere Suite, which features a private terrace overlooking the garden and the spectacular Rose Window. It’s worth mentioning that family versions of the Classic and Executive rooms are available, which add a sitting room onto the standard bedroom. A single bed can be set up in there, making these rooms suitable for a family of three or a couple wanting a little more space.
Food and drink
There are two restaurants here. Elementa serves breakfast and lunch, while Contempo does Mediterranean cuisine with a twist—which means Italian food cooked well, with an ingredient or two you wouldn’t expect. There’s a good amount of vegetarian and gluten-free options too. The staff know their stuff, and it’s worth leaving the wine to them as most of it comes from Lazio, and usually has a story. In the warmer months, tables are offered in the courtyard garden under the magnolia trees, but the dining room isn’t a bad alternative. It’s splashed by candlelight, making it tailor-made for wedding proposals, anniversaries, and first dates.
The neighborhood/area
The contrasts of Trastevere are likely to give you whiplash until you get used to them. Cobblestone alleys are lined with wisteria and wooden shutters, while ornate lamps hang off weathered walls, perfect for postcards and Instagram posts. The neighborhood is only a 10-minute walk from the Vatican, and nearby Villa Farnesina has some of the city’s most beautiful gardens. It should be a sleepy slice of Rome, except it’s also home to three universities, which means it’s thronged with bars and restaurants, which get rowdier the later it gets. If you want the atmosphere, but not the people, Donna Camilla Savelli has a rooftop terrace with amazing views. Bring your own wine, though. There’s no bar up there.
The service
Staff are friendly and attentive without hovering. There’s no concierge, but the reception staff know the area inside and out and are happy to fling a few recommendations around if you’re not sure where to eat or what to do.
Anything left to mention?
Donna Camilla Savelli isn’t the biggest hotel in Rome, nor is it the newest. But what it lacks in grandeur it makes up for in affordability, authenticity, and charm. The kind staff work around the clock to arrange tailor-made experiences, including wine and olive oil tastings, as well as private art tours. Plus, there’s on-site parking for those traveling with a car, a major boon in busy central Rome.
Via Garibaldi, 27, Rome 00153
Italy
http://www.hoteldonnacamillasavelli.com/
(39) 06-588861