Why book?
To experience a cosmopolitan side of Connecticut
Set the scene
When I first joined Traveler, my mother half-joked that if I ever got to stay at the Delamar, I’d be bringing her along with me. We both grew up in nearby Connecticut towns—Ridgefield for her, and then New Canaan for me. Prior to marrying, she edited children’s books at a publishing house in Greenwich and, when I was four, she watched the Delamar Greenwich Harbor—the first luxury property in this luxurious neck of the woods—open its doors, and gossiped with other young mothers about the erotic fantasies such a fabulous hotel and its accompanying bar would bring to the wasp’s nest. When it turned out that I would indeed pay a visit, I showed up with my mother Lisa in tow. And at this plush waterfront hotel with a tranquil view from the balcony, in a suite so capacious we could lose each other if we wanted to, not once did we bicker.
The backstory
Greenwich, for the unfamiliar, is a prosperous city ensconced in Connecticut’s little panhandle. Its proximity to Manhattan (a 50-minute jaunt aboard the Metro-North Railroad) gave high rollers a convenient suburban annex for their ball and chains. Along the Harbor that feeds into the Sound sprang up—and has continued to, with new development arising here, there, everywhere—homes so remarkable in their grandness and scale that one might ironically call them “cottages." It was along this so-called Gold Coast that entrepreneur and shipping titan Charles Mallory chose to first dip his toe into hospitality; two decades in, the success of the Greenwich institution has spawned three more Delamars in Connecticut, plus a fourth in Michigan.
The rooms
The 1,200-square-foot Presidential Suite, beautiful as it is, was nearly shirked entirely by me during my stay in favor of its balcony. I camp out on this delicious sliver with coffee in the morning, and then wine and then coffee again throughout the day, variously gazing out at the water and leafing through my Iris Murdoch novel. The interiors are minimalist Tuscan, with creamy walls and picture windows framing that aforementioned fabulous view. Plush doesn’t begin to cover it.
Food and drink
Onsite restaurant L’Escale is just as much a Greenwich institution as the hotel itself—a proper entity conveniently attached at the hip to your lodging for power lunchers in daylight, special-occasion diners in the evening, and a rotating cast of Hopper subjects always at the bar. It’s a Friday night when I eat there; the Friday before Halloween, a man eats his dinner in a cape, fanged dentures on the table. Fine French fare is the name of the game here, with Executive Chef Frederic Kieffer (who also oversees the Artisan restaurants at the other Delamar locations) and his team delivering excellent spreads of seafood in the fitting sound-side location (the restaurant, like the rooms, enjoys prime water views). Favorite bites included the tuna crudo and a duck that seems to have fallen off the rotating menu—but it’s hard to go wrong here. My mother, a picky eater, cleaned her plate of every course, and even ate oysters and mushrooms for the first time in my life!
The spa
The impeccably tasteful Georgette Mallory (aforementioned Charles' wife) oversees the Delamar Spa here, as with the other locations, and treatments utilize skincare from Bioloqigue Recherche and Valmont. They’re big on facials—ask for AJ if you’d enjoy a particularly skillful extraction; I left looking younger.
The neighborhood/area
A seven minute stroll from the Greenwich train station and the shopping of Greenwich Avenue beyond, this is not a country hotel. There’s much to do within walking distance; don’t miss the Bruce Museum (and the surrounding 100-acre Bruce Park) that’s a mere four minutes away on foot for some contemporary art and natural history.
The service
Smiling, friendly, and personal. Ask about the private yachting experience, available from May to October—rare custom yachts are on hand to take visitors into the Harbor, where you can stake out the city’s finest real estate while munching on tea sandwiches. When you return to port, don’t be surprised if you’re presented with a surprise gift memorializing the experience.
For families
A few polite kids hang around the lobby, but the space isn’t exactly replete with entertainment for them.
Anything left to mention?
Take a moment to enjoy the art in the lobby, handpicked from Mallory’s collection to compliment the sun-soaked space. There’s a fine sculpture of a female nude on a pedestal that I’m told a mischievous bunch of L’escale drinkers attempted to steal once, but my favorite is a massive Alan Gaizer called Tapies Rouge II, depicting an interior filling with light in much the same way as the room in which it sits.
500 Steamboat Road, Greenwich, Connecticut 06830
United States
https://www.delamar.com/hotels/delamar-greenwich-harbor
(203) 661-9800