Why book?
Because it’s a doubly iconic experience. This is a Cipriani property, so it’s luxury to the max, but in that effortlessly chic Italian sort of way. On top of that, it’s in the landmark Battery Maritime Building, a building so many New Yorkers have seen, but so few have actually ventured into. In some ways, it’s like a portal to a different era in New York City, where the action was on the waterfront and where you dressed for dinner. This sounds strange, but after a few hours (or Bellinis) at Casa Cipriani you really could mistake the East River for the canals of Venice.
Set the scene
Anyone who’s ventured to Staten Island or Governor’s Island by ferry—or driven through the Brooklyn Battery Tunnel—has seen the Battery Maritime Building on the edge of the East River. You may not have known it was the Battery Maritime Building but you’ve most likely wondered what that Beaux-Arts building was, the massive steel structure that almost perfectly matches the patina of the Statue of Liberty. It was built in 1909 and served as a terminal for ferries traveling to Brooklyn. Part of it is still used as a ferry terminal today, shuttling visitors to and from Governor’s Island. But the inside of the superstructure has been turned over to Casa Cipriani, a 47-room hotel that’s also a private member’s club. That Aston Martin parked right out front? That’s the house car, and a good indicator of the vibes behind the revolving door. Its proximity to the Downtown Manhattan Helipad—a 30 second ride in the Aston Martin—is fortuitous, since the typical Casa Cipriani guest is likely catching a 15-minute helicopter ride to JFK, or, if flying private, to Newark or Teterboro.
The backstory
Cipriani tapped the living design legend Thierry Despont to oversee the restoration and transformation of the historic ferry terminal. Despont was, after all, the architect and designer hired to take on the $60 million centennial restoration of the Statue of Liberty completed in 1986. He’s also responsible for refreshing iconic hotels like The Carlyle in NYC, Claridge’s in London, The Ritz Paris, Hotel Principe di Savoia in Milan. The list goes on. Needless to say, the building and its heritage were in extremely capable hands. Despont wanted guests to feel like they were on a vintage luxury ocean liner. When you walk down the hallway en route to your room or suite, it feels like you're in the corridor of the Queen Mary or the SS Normandie, down to the lacquered hand rail and portholes on the guestroom doors. Inside is all Art Deco—from the lobby to the bars and restaurant to the guest rooms —but the facade hasn’t been altered at all. In fact, the vaulted porch ceiling on the street-facing side of the building still has the original Guastavino tiles; the building was one of his last commissions before he died in 1908.
The rooms
Our one-bedroom suite was lined in Loro Piana cashmere wall coverings. That’s the sort of luxurious detail you’ll find in every nook and cranny of the guest rooms. The sheets on the bed are from the 150-year-old luxury linen house Rivolta Carmignani based in Macherio, just outside of Milan. Prior to check in guests can choose between Italian cotton or Italian linen. There are two bathrooms—one with a very oversized walk-in shower—and a closet that we’d wager is bigger than most nearby studio apartments. Whoever thought to add the full-length, three-angle mirror deserves a raise because those are a rarity in hotels, and it’s especially useful given the dress code at Casa Cipriani. It’s hard not to fall completely under the spell of the hotel from the minute you step into your room or suite. Maybe it’s the Art Deco light fixtures or art work on the wall. Maybe it’s the jazz playing softly in the background. Or the way the setting sun hit the lacquer furniture and the shiny brass knobs. Almost instantly I wanted to change my clothes, dab on a little perfume, and slide into a banquette with a stiff drink. But perhaps the most remarkable thing about the guest rooms at Casa Cipriani are the private terraces. The spacious private terraces. Be sure to request a river-facing room because there’s really nothing like this view anywhere in town: Just beneath you, you’ve got the Staten Island Ferry pulling in and out of Whitehall Terminal; that’s Governor’s Island straight ahead, and beyond that Brooklyn. To your right, you’ve got the Statue of Liberty. Standing out there, as water taxis zip past and passengers trudge onto the ferry en masse, it’s abundantly clear that the ocean liner vibe Despont was creating, extends out here as well, to the water’s edge. It’s the perfect spot to have your morning coffee and one last night cap before turning in.
Food and drink
This is probably a controversial take, given that Casa Cipriani is located in one of the greatest cities in the world, but, you really don’t ever have to leave the property. There’s so much going on inside Casa Cipriani that no one would blame you if you spent your entire stay on the premises. Guest rooms are on the third and fourth floors, but the fifth floor is the soul of the place. It’s where you’ll find the Club restaurant, the Jazz Cafe, the Club Bar, the Promenade Bar, and the Living Room. Remember it’s a private club, so during the day, guests and members commingle in the elegant yet cozy Living Room, laptops open, cappuccinos flowing. The Art Deco features—the sconces, the sleek sofas, the credenzas, the tiled fireplace—all make a truly impressive backdrop for some exquisite people watching. The Living Room also extends outdoors to the rooftop Terrazzo Bar with views that are almost too distracting. One Friday, I was in the Living Room when, at the stroke of 4pm, martini glasses swiftly replaced espresso cups as Golden Hour descended upon us. The transition from day to night was palpable. It was as if the entire room gently exhaled and settled in for Act Two of this extraordinary experience. The Living Room takes up the south side of the building. The Club, on the north side, is where you’ll want to have dinner. It does all the Cipriani classics—carpaccio, baked tagliolini with ham, baby artichokes—and a has a spectacular view of the Brooklyn Bridge. Again, it extends outdoors onto a massive terrace overlooking the East River. Book a table when you book your stay—reservations tend to fill up and you wouldn’t want to miss it. If you’ve been to the original Harry’s Bar in Venice, you’ll feel right at home at the Club Bar. Between the Living Room and the Club is the Jazz Cafe and the river-facing Promenade Bar—pull up a stool, order a Sidecar and listen to some Chet Baker before heading into The Jazz Cafe (open Tuesday to Saturday evenings from 7pm-1:30am). The latter is meant to feel like a 1930’s supper club. When we slinked out just after last call the band—and the crowd—was still going strong.
The spa
The treatments run the gamut from body scrubs and acupuncture to IV infusions and cryotherapy. I’m still thinking about my HydraFacial MD. It was hands down one of the greatest facials I’ve ever had partly because my aesthetician was one of the most knowledgeable I’ve encountered. It’s not an exaggeration to say I think of this woman most nights when I’m applying my serum before bedtime.
The neighborhood/area
Casa Cipriani, at the very Southern tip of Manhattan, is perfectly situated in many ways. It’s at the foot of the FDR Drive which means you can get uptown in a flash. If you’re headed to the west side, you can easily loop onto the West Side Highway. You’ve got quick access to Brooklyn, subways, ferries, and Lower Manhattan which has more going on than ever before.
The service
The first time I heard from Michael, our concierge, it was a few days prior to our stay. He asked if we needed the house car—the Aston Martin—on the day we were due to check in. The car was ours whenever we needed it. He went on to say that he wanted to ensure our room was prepared to our liking: would we prefer still or sparkling water? Linen or cotton sheets? Fresh fruit, chocolate, or maybe assorted cheeses instead? The service is considered but not at all intrusive. They truly make you feel like you’re the most important person in the room, and who doesn’t want to feel like that for a few nights?
Accessibility
In five rooms and suites, all the doorways are wheelchair accessible. The hotel does a good job of making it clear which rooms and suites these are: On their website, there’s an “accessible” filter under the Rooms & Suites menu. There are ADA compliant door pulls, bathtubs, and knee clearance and counter height provided at vanities. Grab bars are provided at the toilet and bathtub, and the peephole has a minimum of 180-degree range of view. There’s elevator access throughout the building.
10 South Street, New York, NY 10004
United States
http://www.despont.com/
(212) 584-5801