Why book?
The long-awaited Regent is a gracious, green oasis of generous hospitality in Bali’s buzziest ‘hood, where you manage to feel above the fray while also smack in the middle of the action, especially from the 15-acre resort’s three oceanfront villas, so close to the sea spray and surfers dancing on peeling emerald waves that it sometimes appear they might ride straight into your private infinity pool.
Set the scene
If Ubud is a microcosm of Bali, the seaside village of Canggu is an amalgamation of iconic beach towns—think Venice, California, and Byron Bay, Australia—that’s known for its laid-back blend of surf with a healthy social scene. With both a froth-front restaurant equipped with surfboard racks and an exclusive private club, Regent Bali Canggu manages to adeptly balance an energetic sense of place with the comforting luxuries an uber-discerning traveler seeks in their island holiday. Exquisite hospitality makes all the difference. Beyond the resort temple, Regent delivers an elegant splash of Bali in referential elements such as a hand-rolled incense stick (ubiquitous in the canang sari daily offerings) at turndown, intricate woodworking, and a vibrant storytelling illustration depicting the legend of the Bali Strait. You can spot Mount Agung, Canggu’s waves, frangipani flowers, an ancient dragon, and more in the signature motif emblazoned in key card sleeves and umbrellas. There’s a playfulness, also seen in the Regent Experience Agent’s classic-with-a-twist ensembles, that feels young and fresh even if the brand has a discreet opulence about it. That vibe seems echoed in the understated clientele, which during my stay was split between travelers from APAC and Europe. Guests carry Saint Laurent backpacks and MCM totes to breakfast and don sleek maillots and oversized sunglasses at the pools, of which there are nine, all lined with complimentary cabanas and partially submerged chaise loungers with the likes of Leon Bridges playing at just the right volume.
The backstory
Since its inception in 1970, IHG’s upper luxury hotel and resort brand has focused on creating a timeless take on modern luxury in its properties while offering intuitive service with an emphasis on innovation. The majority of its current locations sprawl across Asia and Europe, and the company has a curious history in Bali dating back several decades to when Regent International Hotels—developed by Robert H. Burns, Georg Rafael, and Indonesian hotelier Adrian Zecha, who went on to found Aman—built a beachfront hotel in Jimbaran Bay. It was the world’s first large-scale resort made up of only standalone villas, each of which had its own private plunge pool. Of course, the then-pioneering move has become ubiquitous in tropical locales in particular, but Regent didn’t get credit for it—they sold the property before it bowed, and it opened in 1993 as Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay. This full-circle debut is a bit of a Bali redo for Regent, and a very intentionally planned one at that, having been in the works since 2009, when the owner (who also owns two Holiday Inn Resorts on the island) purchased the land. His foresight was impeccable; back then Canggu was hardly on anyone’s radar. The owner is a major global exporter of wood from Surabaya, Indonesia, and in 2012 began infrastructure work on the nearly 15-acre property while designing the resort with Singapore’s WATG architectural firm. IHG was a partner from the get go, and it was originally set to be an InterContinental, however the owner wanted a higher level of luxury for what he saw as his legacy. It was kismet when, in 2018, IHG acquired Regent. Much like Regent Phu Quoc, where the hotelier’s interests and beliefs are evident in the architecture, this owner’s passion for wood is visible throughout the resort, from pathway lighting made from repurposed telegraph poles to totem-like timber sculptures and dramatic teak tables. For this phased project, he dipped into his private wood collection and also commissioned an immense seven-layer carving in Javanese paras sandstone for the arrival pavilion. Its lotus motif represents love of life and leadership, and it took a handful of local artisans nearly a month to carve.
The rooms
If you’re coming to Bali for its beaches, there is no better accommodation than one of Regent’s one-bedroom oceanfront villas, with expansive panoramas from the living room and bedroom that feel like a painting came to life. I may be biased having spent my stay in one of these inimitable mini-estates, complete with infinity pool, cushy cabana, and butler’s kitchen stocked with mini Häagen-Dazs ice creams, all steps from the sand. That said, I could see it feeling a bit exposed for some, even with a large grassy lawn and six-foot elevation drop separating the villa from the beach where expats run with their dogs, fitness classes play out, and locals fish from rocky outcroppings at low tide.
If idyllic aquamarine pools are your thing, the 141 spacious suites are where you’ll find happiness, especially the ground-floor ones with direct lagoon access from their terrace. The predominant suites—all of which have generous outdoor space—are spread across four buildings whose Indonesian names translate to mountain, hill, plateau and valley. Of course, the pair of two-bedroom penthouses offer the best of both worlds, each with a 38-foot-long infinity pool that bleeds into the seascape dotted with surfers.
Architecturally, WATG have sensitively married Balinese hallmarks with clean, contemporary silhouettes—my architect husband even noted that the gutters were cleverly hidden, a detail he’s never seen in Bali. It would be hard to pinpoint a year that the resort was built thanks to fairly classic aesthetics. Though in person it feels as though greens and blues swirl around everything, that’s nature seeping in, and the interior palette actually—appropriately—tips more heavily to warm-leaning neutrals alongside wood and stone expressed in a variety of textures and songket-inspired patterns. This, I thought, made the occasional pop of color—see green Indian marble shower accent walls and golden throw pillows—a pleasant surprise. The furniture, all bespoke and manufactured by the owner in Surabaya, feels comfortably residential yet quite refined.
I particularly enjoyed the decoratively carved wood window screens in the vein of Indian jali and vibrant fresh floral arrangements scattered throughout in textured ceramic vases. Sleep came easily to me in the four-poster bed with a headboard sleekly equipped with clearly labeled buttons for everything, especially since there was no agonizing period of trying to figure out how to turn off that one last light (a pain point in so many hotels, I find). But my favorite aspect of the design was the bathtub, solid teakwood carved intricately with the masked face of the mythical Barong creature. Regardless of room type, all 150 accommodations have one, plus an outdoor shower, where I found bliss amongst lush plants, strong water pressure, and lusciously fragrant Sodashi toiletries. I am not one to ever blow dry my hair, but I was momentarily tempted by the Dyson hairdryer, which is placed in a leather case in every room.
On amenities and homey touches it’s hard to top unlimited laundry and pressing service, in-room yoga mats, coffee table books on Balinese design, a robust pillow menu, Bali-made face mist, and, in my case, elaborate, age-appropriate Sensatia Botanicals toiletries sets for my baby and child. Moreover, there’s the Refreshment Gallery, Regent's version of a minibar, though the word doesn’t do it justice. In keeping with the brand’s spirit of generosity, the initial stock of Bali gin and Scotch whisky, beer, soft beverages such as jamu, and locally made artisanal snacks such as Krakakoa Chocolate is gratis. Villa and penthouse guests also get four half bottles of imported wine. And for those moments when something more is needed, but you’re wrapped up in one of two bathrobe options—one lightweight printed cotton, the other plush terry—all the suites have a secret butler’s hatch behind a closet door where food and drinks can be delivered quietly, without disturbance.
Food and drink
The very first thing I ate at Regent Bali Canggu made my tastebuds absolutely sing. It was in my villa on the round dining table set beautifully for lunch with a crisp white linen tablecloth. Succulent and zesty, the Catalana Salad was a refreshing highlight on a hot day, abundant with tender, locally caught lobster, juicy tangerine segments, and passion fruit dressing.
Four of the resort’s eventual five dining outlets were open at the time of my stay, and I’m still daydreaming about a surprising trio of desserts at Sazón, the Spanish tapas—style restaurant a short buggy ride outside the actual resort grounds, on Jl. Batu Bolong (where the number of renowned restaurants could last you weeks). It’s the creation of Irish executive chef Andrew Walsh, whose Singapore standout Cure is Michelin starred. He was fortuitously in the kitchen on the night I dined, so we took an omakase approach to dinner. The green Japanese scallop ajoblanco and soulful Iberico grilled pork paella—rich yet earthy with sofrito, kale, and mushrooms—showed off the wood-wrapped venue’s range beautifully.
At chef’s suggestion, we moved over to the dessert bar for grand finale after grand finale: a boozy compressed fruit “salad,” a coffee jam and burnt milk ice cream melange, and sangria sorbet with olive jelly and crunchy Maldon salt. Request a seat at the bar or long adjacent table for a front row look into the open kitchen. Next, Walsh will concoct a fresh take on Cure, this time for Regent’s prized beachfront location; it’s expected sometime around June 2025.
Another evening I curled up on a cabana daybed beside the pool at Beach House, and ate poisson cru out of a ceramic seashell while watching the surfers out front get every last wave as the setting sun transformed the sky into an intensifying pink. This casual outlet attracts more than resort guests, and you can expect at least a few people to be staging carefully composed photos at any given time.
Access to the private and quietly serene Regent Club, set at the top of the resort with an adults-only pool embracing the full panorama, is only included for villa and penthouse guests but is available as an add-on to suite bookings. For now, breakfast is served there with a continental buffet and robust menu of Indonesian and Western dishes. But when high season hits in June it will move down to the larger Indonesian-leaning Taru. (I’d return to Taru in a heartbeat for more molten kroket rendang, pulled beef croquettes, and dabu-dabu snapper crudo.) For me, the turmeric-spiked soto ayam chicken noodle soup was the best part of breakfast, seconded by a lovely pastry basket with housemade Bali tangerine preserves and strawberry-lime jam. I found the traditional bubur ayam porridge far tastier during a floating breakfast than in the club.
With its generously spaced indoor tables and deep, cushion-y outdoor setups, the Regent Club is a source of complimentary all-day fare. There’s lunch—brown miso red snapper for a very satisfying light dish or quiche Lorraine for some decadence—plus dinner, high tea and, from 5:30-7:30 p.m., cocktails and free-flowing Billecart-Salmon Champagne. An ever-changing lineup of special Balinese cultural experiences is also part of the private club deal. I enjoyed the novelty of a Balinese numerology reading that turned up some apt warnings; arak tasting and lontar engraving are other possibilities.
The spa
I consider it bordering on sinful to visit Bali and not have a single Balinese massage. And Regent Spa & Wellness—the world’s first Regent-branded spa when it opens in late 2025—surely can deliver on that, but also more. Placed at the top of the cascading resort, its six single rooms and one couple’s suite plus plunge pool and sauna were under construction during my visit, so sadly I was not able to experience the forthcoming deluge of treatments that involve active Kerstin Florian skincare, Bali-inspired massages and scrubs, and elements such as aromatherapy, crystals and light. I did take an equal parts feel-good, fun, and comical private mom-baby yoga class in the adjacent Health Club’s mat studio, where complimentary morning yoga and afternoon fitness classes (think boxing, core, and agility training) occur daily for those who prefer guided exercise over a treadmill session or Technogym lift in the spacious, sunlit gym.
The neighborhood
To be perfectly honest, Canggu has never been a Bali must-do in my book. What first drew me to the island—and made me want to call it home, which I have on and off for seven years—was primarily Balinese culture. This particular beach town is not the most natural place to find it, especially as it’s quickly become populated with Western comforts, foreign architecture, medi-spas and plenty of nightlife. (There’s a but coming.) In this, my first visit to Canggu in six years, I witnessed some of the growth I’d been hearing about and actually felt a bit swayed by some of the undeniably delicious dining opportunities in easy walking distance (meimei and Yuki in particular; SKOOL Kitchen is on my list for next time) plus the easy accessibility to Balinese Hindu traditions provided by Regent. For example, wearing a lace kebaya and kamben sarong I found hanging on my red leather-wrapped closet bar, and accompanied by my Experience Agent and a Balinese guide, I visited the iconic 16th-century sea temple Tanah Lot at low tide (the only time it’s accessible) to get doused in holy water by a mangku (priest) in a moving private melukat purification ceremony. I’ve undertaken this ritual in a variety of venues, yet doing so at such a storied location hit differently. After experiencing Canggu through the lens of the Regent, I’ll be amending my personal Bali recommendations list to include it.
The service
White-glove, respectful, and prompt, in particular the support I got from my personal Regent Experience Agent, who plays the role of butler and concierge. I never waited more than two minutes for a WhatsApp response. The service was anticipatory: He’d kindly let me know what time a buggy would be outside our door in advance of reservations, never putting me in the (potentially stress-inducing) position of needing to even think about timing or requesting transportation. In the restaurants and by the poolside, staff knew our names and that we prefer sparkling water. They cheerfully engaged with our little ones. Speaking of, the Experience Agents are experts in producing thoughtful surprises—a swan pool float, bath toys, Legos, and oil pastels, all presented with personalized cards—for young guests and know that their happiness is often key to parents’ hearts. Almost impossible dinner reservations are naturally in their wheelhouse, yet I was most impressed by the blink-of-an-eye speed at which my unflappable Experience Agent secured a babysitter.
For families
As is customary in Bali, kids are treated like royalty by virtually all resort staff, and there is always someone ready with open arms to hold or play with them. Adding to the effortlessness of my stay, silicone bibs, cups, spoons, and plates plus high chairs were provided immediately at every restaurant, and the diverse kids menu doesn’t consist of simply junk food and French fries. In the rooms, rollaway beds and cribs are available, as well as diaper pails. There will soon be an indoor-outdoor kids club for a slew of activities and crafts, but in its absence two members of the team brought supplies to our villa and helped my four-year-old make beaded bracelets and salt dough to bake, cut into shapes and paint.
Eco effort
Already the resort is single-use plastic free, and sliding glass doors are equipped with sensors that click off the AC when open. Sustainability is a particular passion of GM Manish Puri—who came from Potato Head, Seminyak’s nearly zero-waste model of regenerative hospitality—and additional efforts are in the works, such as with Nespresso to ensure circularity of used espresso pods. Rainwater is also collected to use for irrigation.
Accessibility
The resort is not ADA compliant, however rumor has it an accessible ground-level suite may be added.
Anything left to mention?
At this choose-your-own-adventure of a resort, total relaxation is a route I didn’t take and wish I did. I’m not sorry to have submerged in multiple pools, tasted everything, sampled activities, and more, but I do regret that I didn’t prioritize ordering up one of the sumptuous sounding bath rituals in our gorgeous teakwood tub—a “personal haven” in Regent speak. I imagine the clove, cardamom, and frangipani laden herbal soak would pair beautifully with a pre-made Negroni from the minibar.
Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong No.93xx, Canggu, Bali 80361
Indonesia
https://www.regenthotels.com/balicanggu
62 361 2019999