Why book?
From its hilltop perch across from the Parque Eduardo VII, the Four Seasons Ritz Lisbon basks proudly in expansive views of Portugal's capital city—and that the property itself is a gilded masterpiece is just the icing on the cake.
Set the scene
The midcentury, blockish silhouette of the hotel is dramatic, almost brutal—it's also impossible to miss, as much for that aforementioned altitude as for the neon sign that reads “Ritz” from the very top. This is, however, a Four Seasons—the original Hotel Ritz name was negotiated with the Charles Ritz chain (yes, as in The Ritz of Paris) in the ‘50s, and dissolved when the Four Seasons took over the party in 1997. Check-in is smooth—from the entrance on the slanted street, guests are whisked inside to a lobby disarmingly luscious (white marble, gilded touches) considering the exterior. The service is a dream, as are the common spaces—handwoven tapestries by Portuguese artist José Sobral de Almada Negreiros hang throughout, with ornate furnishings and happy wallpaper in a rich yellow.
The rooms
The guest rooms are newly renovated, but would look right at home in an episode of Mad Men—and Don Draper in particular would appreciate the wood-paneled minibar. The palette in the sleeping quarters is neutral—beiges and reddish browns, touches of sage green and gray—while the bathrooms are clad in dramatic black marble. My favorite space is the private balcony, crawling with green Spanish tile and bestowed with a bistro table and ashtray. When the weather permits, which in Lisbon it often does, there's no place better to sit.
Food and drink
There's an option for everyone here, and I struggle with writing this, prioritizing one thing over another. Thinking chronologically: guests start the day with breakfast or brunch at the longstanding classic Varanda Restaurant for one of the most startlingly well-appointed buffets I've ever encountered, with sumptuous fruits, cold cuts, pastries (including, of course, a fabulous pastel de nata), and hot options like scrambled eggs and bacon, as well as an a la carte menu. From here, head to the pool (more on that later), where Mediterranean cuisine and cocktails are served from 11 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Once you've soaked up the sun to your satisfaction, consider a snack or drink at lobby institution Ritz Bar—there's a sushi counter—before heading to Michelin-starred Cura for dinner. The 10-course Percurso tasting menu is obviously the highlight here, but I was particularly delighted by the non-alcoholic pairing options—savory, delicious juices made exclusively with waste ingredients from the kitchen.
The spa
En route to the pool (indoor and out), you'll pass the bottom-floor spa—it's a classic, utterly tranquil facility with a color palette of cream and dark wood. The treatment menu spans massages and facials, and treads into full-on digital detox programs.
The neighborhood/area
Walking distance from Lisbon's city centers—Príncipe Real, Bairro Alto—this hotel's strength is its proximity to the park and the relative quiet enjoyed by guests as a result.
The service
Immaculately warm, and always smiling.
Accessibility
Every level is accessible via the elevator, and the outdoor pool can be accessed via a long ramp. Accessible rooms are available.
Anything left to mention?
The new outdoor pool is divinely quiet, with ample seating and a fabulous menu of food and drink. Heading upstairs, all the way to the top, there's an impressive fitness center—old-school wooden pilates machines, pristine new equipment, punching bags, just the works. But it also counts the best view in the house, via the wraparound rooftop running track.
R. Rodrigo da Fonseca 88 , Lisbon, 1099-039
Portugal
https://www.fourseasons.com/lisbon/