Why book?
If you’re craving the vintage flavor of bohemian New York—don’t walk, slink and swagger into this revamped New York icon. After the automatic front doors swing guests into the lobby, an ironwork chandelier, olive-green velour curtains, and a humming fireplace dress the Hotel Chelsea in a confidently maximalist wardrobe. Not to mention the dynamic statement pieces on the walls from prior tenants like Hiroya, Andy Warhol, and Herbert Gentry. Though it’s not Just Kids here anymore, creativity still courses through the Hotel Chelsea, even if it is all glammed and grown up now. —Kat Chen, editorial assistant
Set the scene
The hotel feels like a colony of different watering holes, and as an avid people watcher I was delighted. When I checked in, the lobby was occupied by three different parties of silver-haired Southern belles; the chattering of Hinge dates, birthday dinners, and post-graduate reunions filled the Café Chelsea, and the rooftop fitness center was packed with associates and analysts breaking a sweat after work. Given its location in Chelsea, a neighborhood now known for its galleries, artisanal food market, and the High Line, the hotel seems to attract all types who appreciate their culture with a bit of buzz and edge. The crowds when I was there were like a walking Pinterest board punctuated with vintage pieces, hyperlocal brands, and tasteful camp. —KC
The backstory
Built in the late 1800s, the Queen Anne building-turned-landmark hotel has welcomed guests and long-term residents like Mark Twain and Stanley Kubrick. It has been immortalized in songs, films, and books (see “Third Week in the Chelsea,” by Jefferson Airplane, and Patti Smith’s Just Kids, for starters). The hotel stopped taking reservations in 2011 before changing owners a few times over. The Chelsea finally reopened this year, from the team behind The Ludlow and The Bowery—with some overdue upgrades. Though the century-old El Quijote restaurant in the lobby remains, new food and beverage concepts are exciting: the decadent new Lobby Bar with its chandeliers and a grand piano has a sunny solarium and a cocktail menu that borrows from famous hotels around the world. There's also a private event space, The Bard Room, with more crown moldings and moody lighting. In late 2022, French-American restaurant Café Chelsea opened alongside the rooftop spa and fitness center, which are converted artist lofts. —Megan Spurrell, associate articles director
The rooms
Stepping into the artwork-adorned stairwell of the Chelsea, the hotel feels more like an apartment building than anything else—perhaps because it once multi-tasked as one—and this feeling extends into every guest room. The design isn't too flashy, isn't too rock-and-roll, isn't too homey, yet it has a lick of each of these elements. There's also the ever-present feeling that the walls have stories.
The 155 guest rooms and suites, freshened up since their rock and roll days, have wood floors with the Hotel Chelsea monogram now inlaid; the sun dapples through ivory eyelet fabric on the windows; and the bathrooms are classically done with light and dark grey marble accentuated by bronze details. Animal-print chairs maintain a bit of spunk in the now bright, airy rooms, as do ornate dark wood bedside tables. Massive closets, their interiors a riot of wallpaper, make it even easier to imagine unpacking and sticking around for a while. If you visited the Chelsea back in the day, you'll recognize the original fireplaces, stained glass windows, and those iconic wrought-iron balconies leaning over West 23rd Street, which remain untouched. —MS
Food and drink
The Lobby Bar is one of the neighborhood’s best bars in its own right. Ordering a bracing cold martini that kisses the rim just feels right in a space like this. For both guests and locals to the area, it's a great spot to meet a friend for a drink, without the sterile gloss you sometimes get at a hotel bar. That said, don’t skip the famous paella, vermouth-rich cocktails, and ever-present cool crowd (book a reservation ahead of time) at Spanish restaurant El Quijote. The newest addition, Cafe Chelsea, gives a refreshing take on French-American cuisine with classic dishes like steak frites sharing menu space with innovative bites like the TikTok viral sheet of mini ravioli. And save room for dessert, especially the vanilla cognac ice cream, a velvety, boozy confection that’s not too sweet. —MS
The spa
The newly added spa and fitness center are located on the hotel’s hidden gem of a rooftop: panoramic view of the New York skyline spans from the Empire State Building to the Edge and peeks out from the wildflower garden populated with busy honey bees. This inspired framing of the city that never sleeps serves as the tranquil backdrop of the spa, which offers a traditional Swedish sauna, hot stone massages, and Reiki therapy. Treatment names like The Cure for those who swear, “I'm never drinking again,” pay further homage to the hotel’s frenzied past. The passionate youthfulness here and the spa’s holistic, restorative aura might seem like odd bedfellows, but the chemistry between the two enriches rather than contradicts the overall vibe of cool, refined, New York-ness. Even if you haven’t booked a stay, the spa also takes appointments from non-guests. —KC
The neighborhood/area
This part of Chelsea has a gritty exterior. I wasn't around in Sid Vicious's days, but it hardly surprises me that the punk rocker chose to hang around here (he also, allegedly, murdered his girlfriend Nancy in this very hotel; like I said, gritty). The neighborhood has soul, though, and while you will see a 24-hour hot dog shop on the corner filled with all types at all hours (I've been one of them), walk one block south and you'll see beautiful brownstones; go a block north and you'll hit a Whole Foods. This stretch of Chelsea isn't just one thing, and it makes for a quintessentially New York stay. —MS
The service
Service is very laid-back—don’t be intimidated by the black tie uniform. Genuinely warm and welcoming staff make it easy for you to do everything on your own; leave your weighty key at the front desk as you got out to explore the city, order delivery from off-property restaurants straight to your room through an app, waltz into the included serve-yourself lobby bar breakfast. The team stands out for subtle and thoughtful attention to detail, such as the turndown service gifts including Hotel Chelsea-themed macaron and bottle of Mountain Valley Spring Water on the bedside table. —KC
Accessibility
There are elevators up to the rooms, and all public spaces are on the first floor of the hotel which has ramps leading up from the street. —MS
Anything left to mention?
Don’t miss the hotel’s rooftop, which you can access with your key fob. At the time of writing, it still felt relatively unknown, even amongst other hotel guests; it's on the smaller and quieter side, but that’s a strength not a weakness. —KC
222 W 23rd St, New York, New York 10011
United States
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