Why go?
Could there be a better location for a wellness retreat than a town called Carefree? A suburb of both Phoenix and Scottsdale, Carefree and its surroundings have attracted outdoorsy Arizonians for ages. When Civana opened in 2018, with its choose-as-you-please rota of classes and a sprawling spa, Carefree became a destination for wellness-curious travelers from further afield looking to rest and reset amid tropical desert lands.
Set the scene
Let’s start with the drive into Civana. As someone whose only experience of the North American desert was the Mojave, the Sonoran Desert made me near-gasp with its abundance of plant life—especially its giant Saguaro cacti. It is amid 20-plus acres of this succulent-studded wet-desert landscape that Civana sits: a cluster of simple midcentury-modern structures that house a cafe, restaurants, rooms, and a spa compound. In going with a stripped-back design, the expansive views and beautiful light of the Sonoran desert are in focus.
Its distinctive setting, along with a less-buttoned-up approach to wellness programming, seems to attract large groups—women and men in their late-20s to early-40s who band together in its lobby or pool area before splitting up for different classes. At the end of the day, they assemble by the bar, toasting to bachelorette weekends and landmark birthdays. However, the spot to really enjoy sundown is the terrace on the second floor of the spa. On both evenings, I watched as the sunset cast the sky in pink and gold and dimmed the surrounding hills into shadow, before heading indoors for one last sauna and cold plunge.
What’s the backstory?
The property was originally built in the 1960s as a resort and conference center, part of the larger development of the town of Carefree as a leisure community for people wanting to escape hectic city lives (the town is appropriately, and hilariously, home to streets such as Slumber Street and Nonchalant Avenue). The property changed hands in 2017 and a massive renovation followed, which added state-of-the-art fitness rooms and pools and a spa complex.
What’s the wellness concept?
The goal at Civana is to make wellness more accessible: by way of pricing (average prices hover at $350 per night), offerings (everything from guided meditations to aerial yoga), and access (there are day passes available). In that sense, Civana really feels like a gateway wellness retreat, a place to dip your toes before you decide to go all in. It is also the kind of place that offers its guests plenty of freedom—and none of the judgement. So, if you prefer to use it as a hotel and spend all day by the pool, margarita in hand, there’s nothing to stop you. But you’d do better to sample its programming, which encompasses balanced nutrition, movement, and bits of arts and culture. Not to mention its sprawling spa, where there are 23 treatment rooms on offer as well as a hydrotherapy circuit of hot and cold pools.
Your entire schedule can be booked via a handy app that you’re encouraged to download before your stay (the popular classes get booked early, so make sure your schedule is set before you arrive).
Is there a nutrition concept?
There are two restaurants on site. The cafe, Seed—which I veered towards during the day—features a mostly plant-based menu, including superfood lattes with names like Golden Rest and Cosmic Cacao as well as grain bowls and wraps. There’s more indulgent fare at Terras: cocktails and wine alongside herb-crusted elk tenderloin or mushroom bolognese tagliatelle. A great number of guests seem to prefer to sit around the bar to tuck into snacks and margaritas and socialize with friends.
Was there a standout treatment?
With everything from energy-aligning chi massages to aquatic body massages, there’s plenty to choose from at Civana’s spa. But my favorite treatment was something called Revive to Thrive, which used a combination of Ayurvedic techniques to send you into a space of deep relaxation. Starting with a dry-glove exfoliation, it moved into a warm herbal oil massage before ending with a pressure point-led therapeutic technique.
With the classes on offer, my goal was to push myself to trying things I wouldn’t normally gravitate towards: aerial yoga (too afraid of falling); floating guided meditation in a silk cocoon (too claustrophobic); sleep sound journey (too restless)—and discovered a great sense of accomplishment in not just completing all but also enjoying most.
How were your therapists?
The therapists at the spa were well-trained; always ready to address questions and concerns and accommodate shifting needs. The teachers at classes were more of a mixed bag by way of experience levels—but they all brought an optimism and sense of caring that I appreciated.
What else do they offer?
If you’re an early riser, there are guided hikes into the hills nearby designed for varying skill levels, but the one outdoor experience I really wanted to try (but didn’t have the time for) was the Desert Bathing experience, a three-hour senses-driven nature walk out into the Sonoran Desert.
What’s the space like?
My first thought as I pulled up into Civana’s lobby—white walls, wicker furniture, a glow fireplace—was how unpretentious and accessible it felt. This sparse design extends into the rooms that are dressed in desert hues, with floating beds in the center of the room, walk-in showers, and private balconies that look onto the pool; some also have soaking tubs. The communal parts of the hotel have a similar vibe to the rooms, with neutral palettes and a few pops of muted decoration. Still, the biggest pops come from the Saguaro cacti dotted around the area, and particularly in the central cacti garden. It is one of several spaces designed for quiet and contemplation—an outdoor stone labyrinth is another, where guided meditations are held.
Eco-effort
I particularly appreciated the water hydration stations throughout the property where guests are encouraged to refill their Civana bottles—in fact, I liked my bottle so much, I still use it everyday.
Accessibility
Civana's public spaces are wheelchair accessible and they have ADA-accessible rooms with bathtubs with bars, double vanity sinks with one roll-up, and restroom grab bars.
Anything left to mention?
One night, after an early supper, I booked a cab to go four minutes away—there’s no real way to walk around here—to the Buffalo Chip Saloon. In what was my first real immersion into a Western roadhouse, I joined the line dancing session in progress. As I stumbled through the routines and laughed at myself a lot, it dawned on me that while this wasn’t exactly what I imagined I’d be doing at a wellness retreat, I really felt quite well.
37220 Mule Train Road, Carefree, Arizona 85377
United States
https://www.civanacarefree.com/